Name: Ms. Jeanne Peixian Qiao
Nationality: Chinese citizen –
Please tell us a little bit about your first encounter with wine & the wine industry. Did you have any particular mentors?
Born into a distillery family in Sichuan, China, where we crafted traditional Baijiu from grains, my immersion into the world of wine and spirits feels almost like destiny. However, my first approach to wine was quite unique--sparked not by a single sip but by a story. The legendary tale of Cîteaux and its remarkable contributions to Burgundy's winemaking heritage ignited my passion and curiosity for wine. In 2011, I decided to delve deeper into this fascinating world. At the time, resources were limited, so I made the bold decision to move to France. Naturally, Burgundy was my destination of choice, and prior to pursuing a Master's degree in Wine & Spirits International Business (MS CIVS) at ESC Dijon (now Burgundy School of Business, BSB) in 2015, I also graduated from the University of Burgundy. During this time, I was fortunate to have Georges Pertuiset as my mentor, who guided my journey into the art of sommellerie. My first hands-on winemaking experience came in Dominique Gruhier's vineyard in northern Burgundy, where my tasting talent opened the door to an incredible opportunity to explore winemaking. Later, I worked alongside Philippe Faure-Brac in his Parisian restaurant. Although this was an incredible experience, it was unfortunately brief due to an accident. Since then, my journey has been diverse, taking on roles such as winemaker, sommelier, caviste, educator, tasting judge, and now journalist. Each role has not only enriched my understanding of wine and spirits but also deepened my passion for this fascinating world. I continue to be inspired by the stories and traditions behind each bottle.
What specific traits or skills should a Sommelier(e) possess for professional performance, and is there any person with those qualities you especially admire within the wine industry?
A sommelier must be highly professional, and this professionalism is rooted in a combination of comprehensive knowledge and practical skills. The core responsibility is to recommend wines that complement the client's food choices and present them on-site in an effortless manner, ensuring optimal conditions, appropriate temperature, and adherence to service standards. The ability to manage the wine cellar is indispensable. If a sommelier oversees the role of purchasing director, budget management becomes equally critical. There are also two fundamental principles a sommelier must uphold. First, a sommelier is not superior to others. On the contrary, the sommelier's expertise should simplify and elevate the wine-pairing experience, making it enjoyable and stress-free, rather than creating barriers by flaunting knowledge, using technical jargon, or imposing personal preferences. Second, as a restaurant employee responsible for serving wine and other beverages, a sommelier is, first and foremost, a service professional and a salesperson. While this definition is straightforward, it is often diluted in practice. Ultimately, customer satisfaction--along with practical service skills beyond wine knowledge--is the foundation of a sommelier's role in ensuring the smooth operation of the restaurant.
What would be your advice to a young Sommelier(e)? How to find a good position at home or abroad? Any further tips?
My advice to young sommeliers is simple: travel and taste as much as possible! Immerse yourself in vineyards across the world, talk to winemakers and other professionals, and don't limit yourself to the renowned wineries or grands crus. Every wine region has something unique to offer, and approaching each with your own perspective and experiences will deepen your understanding and appreciation. Always remain humble and polite with your clients. A sommelier's role is to serve, educate, and enhance the customer's experience, not to showcase personal expertise. From my own experience, learning at least one foreign language can be incredibly helpful, especially if you aspire to work in high-quality fine dining establishments. It opens doors to international opportunities and allows you to connect more easily with a diverse clientele and industry professionals.
When a customer asks for advice on selecting wine what, in your opinion, would be the best approach?
It's difficult to define a single approach because every client is unique. However, the key is to make the client feel comfortable and reassured in their choice. The most challenging part is often determining the price range with which the client is comfortable. A casual conversation can help uncover their preferred wine style, while observing their personality can also offer valuable insights. Once you have a sense of their preferences, the next step is to guide them toward a more precise selection, ideally one that complements their food choices. The goal is always to create a seamless and enjoyable experience for the client.
What is your philosophy about glasses? Are you working with well-known brands or are you considering new brands as well? How do you decide?
When I was studying in China, my French teacher- who didn't know much about wine but eagerly shared any information she could find- once introduced me to scientific research about how glass shapes influence sparkling wine bubbles. It was truly fascinating! That said, my philosophy about glasses is quite straightforward. While the different sizes and shapes of glasses are often a matter for crystal glassmakers, I focus on practical and balanced designs: tulip-shaped for versatility, sturdy enough to withstand machine washing in a restaurant setting, reasonably sized for easy storage, aesthetically pleasing to enhance the table art, and offering good quality for the price. Ultimately, functionality and elegance should serve the needs of both the sommelier and the overall dining experience.
What advice would you give people on pairing wine with food?
The classic pairing rules are, of course, a solid foundation. Or, think of wine as part of the sauce and consider whether it complements the dish in that way. However, you'll quickly realize one important thing: individual tastes vary widely. A wine that resonates with European guests might not appeal to American diners, and recommendations based on traditional Euro-American food and wine pairing principles may fall short of meeting the expectations of Asian guests. For this reason, beyond trying wines under the guidance of a sommelier in a restaurant setting, I always encourage people to explore the INTUITIVE wine and food pairings rooted in Chinese tradition. This means drawing inspiration from personal culinary experiences and letting your imagination guide you as much as possible. And above all: try, try, keep trying.
Should a Sommelier(e) taste the guest’s wine?
Haha, I must admit that one of the reasons I initially fell in love with this profession was precisely because sommeliers get to taste the wine, no matter what the guest orders! Of course, the key is to taste, not drink. From a professional perspective, the purpose of tasting is always to ensure the wine's condition and quality.
What are the key ingredients for creating a wine list for a restaurant, and what is your opinion on pricing wine in restaurants, do you have tips on how to determine markups?
Balance is essential when creating a wine list. It means aligning the selection with the restaurant's positioning, cuisine, level of luxury, and location. It also involves balancing categories, regions, styles, and- most importantly- the price range of wines to ensure there is something for everyone while maintaining sufficient margins for the restaurant's owner or operator. Personality is about creating attraction. After all, the wine list is there for the guests. It should feature standout elements that complement the restaurant's identity. Highlighting trends such as organic wines, natural wines, or low- and no-alcohol options can add a modern touch and make the wine list more engaging. When it comes to pricing, the coefficient on wines in restaurants is typically around three. In a luxury fine dining setting, it can go up to four, but only if the service level matches the experience- otherwise, it may feel excessive to the customer. Importantly, the same coefficient is not applied to all wines. For very expensive wines, the coefficient is often slightly lower, while for more common wines, it can be slightly higher. One effective strategy is collaborating with wineries to create an exclusive house wine, which typically offers a higher profit margin. However, the most crucial factor in justifying markups is always the quality of the wine and the accompanying service, as these determine the perceived value for the customer.
How do you manage to stay on top of the changes in the wine industry?
As an independent sommelier and journalist, I have access to a wealth of information. However, it's important to remain mindful that some press releases or magazine articles may be influenced by publicity or advertisers. The best way to stay on top of changes in the wine industry is to travel and taste as much as possible. Participate in tastings, attend exhibitions, and immerse yourself in vineyards around the world. Engage directly with winemakers and other professionals, and most importantly, don't limit yourself to the wines you're already familiar with- exploration is key to staying informed and inspired.
How would a new vineyard get their wine noticed and what is the best way for producers to improve their chances of being listed?
Start by deciding whether to highlight varietal wines or terroir-driven wines. Then focus on producing wines with personality--emphasizing character, finesse, or even simplicity (which is not a flaw if done well). Standardized products are readily available everywhere, so restaurants often prefer constructing their wine lists with original, high-quality wines that stand out and align with their unique needs. The rise of digital and social networks has significantly transformed communication practices in the wine industry, making it easier for winemakers to increase their visibility and connect directly with potential buyers and sommeliers. Leveraging these platforms effectively can greatly enhance a wine's chances of being noticed and selected.
If you were a wine, which variety would you be, and why?
If I were a wine, I would be Malbec. At first glance, it might be underestimated or misjudged- perhaps due to its name or because it hasn't always thrived in the perfect environment. Yet, Malbec is a grape that defies first impressions, showcasing distinct and remarkable styles in both its birthplace and abroad. It's a variety that is rich, full of strength, and one that reveals its true depth only to those who take the time to understand it.
Which top 3 types of wine (your faves would we find in your home wine collection and what’s your desert island wine?
Certainly, you would find wines of Burgundy in my home collection--specifically, a white from Chablis, the great red wines of the Côte de Nuits, and an extra-brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne. As for my desert island wine? I would undoubtedly bring something great, but honestly, the most important factor might just be quantity! On a desert island, I'd need enough good wine to keep me going until the very end.
Best regards, Jeanne
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